The Powers We Deny.

While we are here, we are all taking two observation/journaling classes – one about religion in Tanzania and the other looking at Contemporary Tanzanian culture. Last week Peter and I were talking about some of the challenges that these classes pose. The biggest challenge for us is that in Tanzania, the culture reflects a lot of the religious beliefs
(both past and present). Many times it is extremely difficult to differentiate between what is secular and what falls into the religious sphere. Since the country still is split about equally between Christianity, Islam, and traditional religions, it makes for a type of culture that encompasses and is tolerant of a variety of people and practices. Many of the busses and daladalas have some type of religious slogans written across them. It is interesting since in the US, while religion is important, it is separated from the rest of the nation’s (and many individuals’) lives.
One aspect of Tanzania that we’ve recently talked a lot about with Mchungaji is black magic. It is something that I think all four of us have some skepticism towards. However, at the same time, it is difficult to say that is flat out doesn’t exist, when someone you respect and know is deeply aware of the culture tells you that they believe these things exist. PH told us about stories of possession and curses. One he has told is about a Christian missionary family that lived in a very heavily Muslim area. One day some Muslim elders from the village came up to the mother and father and asked them, “What is your medicine?” They replied with, “Oh, if we are sick we get some medicine from the local store.” The elders didn’t like that answer, so they asked the question again. The Christians replied saying, “Well if we are really sick, we go to the local dispensary and get a shot.” The elders became furious. They asked what the family does each night and what time they go to bed. The family explained that each night they pray, sing, and then they shut off the lights around 8 or 9 since hey have small children. The elders told them that for the past few nights they had been trying to go and put an end to the missionary family but every time that they went, no matter what time of night, the light was on and there was singing coming from the inside. The elders told the missionaries that clearly they are protected by something powerful and they would be left alone from now on.
Another story we’ve heard is about Dr. Nyka – the woman who started Faraja Trust – and how she has woken up in the morning with little cuts all over her chest (a classic sign that you have been cursed and black magic has come to visit you in the night).
Finally we’ve heard about several spirit possessions. They are always women and when they are possessed, have raspy men’s voice that come out of them. I asked why women and why they are possessed by male demons. Mchungaji told me that it is because often times women turn to black magic to heal various (usually menstrual) ailments and when they do so, they are then kept in the hold of black magic by a possession. One story that PH had told us was of a woman who had gone to try and use black magic to heal something that was ailing her. She was supposed to bring a white sheet, a white chicken, and the hand of a child (meaning she had killed the child). She was at church one day while PH and Luka were there and Luka went outside with her for a little while. They talked and she explained that she had done the first two but was quite frightened to do the final task and she wanted out but she had drank a bottle of water with the ink of some verses and is now stuck. Luka (being the genius that he is) told her that drinking the blood of Jesus will save her and free her from the hold of the black magic. She agreed and went in the church to take communion and from then on she has been fine.
Even after hearing all these stories, I am not completely certain what to believe. Black magic traditionally goes along with Islam and Christians don’t really have a problem with it. But there are some things you hear that are just too odd to be a fictional story. And since I have been thinking about it for some time I have come to realize that if we accept the existence of a powerful, invisible being that interacts in our lives how can we also just blindly deny the existence of an evil invisible being?
Peace.